Adding a new pop-up sprinkler head to an existing lateral line is one of the most common DIY irrigation projects. The work involves cutting into the lateral, installing a new tee fitting and connecting the new head. With basic tools and the right parts, the job takes 30-60 minutes per head. Here is the workflow.
Before You Start
Verify the Addition Makes Sense
Before installing a new head, confirm:
- The zone has sufficient flow capacity for an additional head (count existing heads and confirm the zone can support one more)
- The location actually needs coverage (consider whether existing heads with adjusted spray patterns would cover the area)
- The wire and lateral routing is reachable from the planned head location
Adding heads to an already over-extended zone creates pressure problems for the entire zone. Verify zone capacity before adding.
Verify Zone Pressure
If the zone is already showing reduced pressure or coverage issues, address those before adding heads. See related troubleshooting articles on low pressure and coverage problems.
What You Need
Components
- New sprinkler head matched to the existing zone style (Rain Bird 5000 rotor, Hunter PGP, Toro 570Z spray, etc.)
- Replacement riser (typically 4-inch or 6-inch length, matched to your existing risers)
- Slip-tee fitting (or compression tee) for tapping into the lateral
- Slip-coupling for the cut-in connection
- Teflon tape
- PVC primer and cement (for PVC laterals)
- Hose clamps (for poly laterals)
Tools
- Hand trowel or small spade
- PVC cutter or sharp utility knife
- Adjustable wrench or channel locks
- Tape measure
- Marker
Step 1: Identify the Lateral Line
- Determine the existing lateral that will feed the new head:
- Trace the lateral from the nearest valve outlet to the heads
- Identify a logical splice point near the planned head location
- Confirm the lateral is PVC or poly (different fittings required)
A splice point near the planned head location minimizes the excavation work. Plan to tap into the lateral 6-12 inches from the new head's installation site.
Step 2: Mark the Splice Location
Mark the location where you will cut into the lateral:
- Use a flag or paint to mark the cut point
- Verify the position will not conflict with other system components
- Ensure clearance for fitting installation
Step 3: Excavate to Expose the Lateral
Dig carefully:
- Use a hand trowel to expose the lateral line
- Dig 4-6 inches deep to reach the lateral
- Expose enough length for the tee fitting installation (typically 6-8 inches of pipe visible)
- Excavate a slightly wider area to allow tool access
Do not damage adjacent components. Avoid hitting other lateral lines, valves or wires nearby.
Step 4: Shut Off the System
Prevent water from spraying during the work:
- Switch off the controller
- Open the manual bleed on the affected valve to release pressure
- Confirm no water flows when the valve is opened manually
Step 5: Cut the Lateral
With pressure released:
- Mark the section to remove (typically 1-1/2 inches for a slip-tee fitting)
- Cut the lateral cleanly perpendicular to the pipe axis
- For PVC: use a PVC cutter or fine-tooth saw
- For poly: use a sharp utility knife or poly cutter
- Remove the cut section
Keep the cut ends clean and dry for fitting installation.
Step 6: Install the Tee Fitting
For PVC Laterals
- Deburr the cut ends with sandpaper or a deburring tool
- Apply PVC primer to both pipe ends and the tee socket inlets
- Apply PVC cement to both surfaces
- Quickly insert each pipe end into the tee, twisting a quarter turn for even cement distribution
- Hold for 30 seconds while the cement sets
- Wait 30 minutes minimum before pressurizing
For Poly Laterals
- Insert each pipe end into the barb tee fittings
- Slide hose clamps over both joints
- Tighten the clamps with a screwdriver until snug
- No cure time required
Step 7: Connect the Riser
From the tee outlet, run pipe to the new head location:
- Cut pipe to length to reach the head location
- Install a coupling or threaded fitting at the head location
- Connect to the new head's threaded inlet with Teflon tape
- Allow some slack in the pipe routing to accommodate settling
For most residential installations, a 6-inch or 12-inch riser is appropriate. Adjust based on the head's intended height above grade.
Step 8: Install the Head
- Apply 3-4 wraps of Teflon tape to the male threads of the new head (clockwise direction)
- Screw the head onto the riser hand-tight
- Snug an additional half-turn with channel locks
- Adjust the head height so the cap is flush with grade
Do not over-tighten. Over-torque cracks the head or strips the threads.
Step 9: Test Before Backfilling
With all connections complete:
- Switch the controller to manual mode
- Activate the affected zone
- Verify the new head pops up and sprays correctly
- Check all new joints for leaks
- Adjust head position if needed
Do not backfill until the new head and joints are operating correctly.
Step 10: Adjust Spray Pattern
Most pop-up heads have adjustable spray patterns:
- Set the arc (sweep angle) per the manufacturer's instructions
- Set the radius (throw distance) for the area being watered
- Verify the spray hits the target without overshooting onto hardscape or neighboring property
For heads with replaceable nozzles, install the appropriate nozzle for the desired pattern and flow rate.
Step 11: Backfill
With testing complete:
- Backfill the excavation with native soil
- Tamp lightly to settle the soil
- Leave the head cap flush with grade
- Restore lawn or mulch surface around the new head
Step 12: Verify Operation
Run the zone through its normal cycle:
- Confirm the new head operates correctly through the full cycle
- Verify zone pressure has not dropped significantly with the addition
- Verify other heads on the same zone still operate correctly
If zone pressure has dropped or other heads are now under-volted, the zone may be over-capacity. See related troubleshooting articles.
Common Installation Mistakes
Mistake 1: Adding Heads to an Over-Capacity Zone
The most common issue. The new head looks fine but every head on the zone now runs at reduced pressure.
Before adding, total the GPM of existing heads. Verify the zone has capacity for the new head.
Mistake 2: Not Releasing Pressure Before Cutting
Cutting into a pressurized lateral causes water to spray under pressure when the cut is made. Always open the manual bleed first.
Mistake 3: Wrong Head Type
Mixing rotor and spray heads in the same zone creates uneven application rates. Match the new head to the existing zone style.
Mistake 4: Over-Tightening Threaded Connections
Forcing the head onto the riser cracks plastic threads. Tighten until snug, then a half-turn more. Do not exceed.
Mistake 5: Skipping Teflon Tape
Threaded connections without Teflon tape leak slowly. Always wrap male threads before installation.
Mistake 6: Backfilling Before Testing
Backfilling without testing creates the need for re-excavation if any joint leaks. Always test under pressure first.
When to Hire Professional Help
Consider professional help when:
- The lateral line cannot be located easily
- The zone has multiple existing problems beyond head addition
- The installation requires routing through hardscape
- The customer has multiple heads to add to the same zone
Next Step
Verify zone capacity first. If the math works, gather materials and plan the splice location. The installation itself is methodical, and most DIYers can complete a head addition in under an hour for the first install. Subsequent installs go faster as the workflow becomes familiar.
